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TIME: Almanac 1990
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1990 Time Magazine Compact Almanac, The (1991)(Time).iso
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102389
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10238900.010
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1990-09-22
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BUSINESS, Page 70High Style for the 9-to-5 SetDonna Karan sells working women a look of their ownBy Barbara Rudolph
America's retailers have precious little to cheer about these
days. Many of the best-known U.S. department-store chains are up
for sale. Garment sales have been stagnant, and profits are
squeezed. But then there is Donna Karan, a women's-clothing
designer whose creations send department-store executives into fits
of giddy optimism. The Queen of Seventh Avenue, as the fashion
press calls her, Karan is chief executive officer and head designer
of a five-year-old company that expects to rake in $115 million in
revenues this year. Her sportswear line arrived in stores eight
months ago in one of the most successful launches in fashion
history. Says Joan Kaner, senior vice president of the Neiman
Marcus chain: "Donna's name is magic right now."
Karan, 41, has earned a reputation as the sartorial savior of
the modern working woman who is fed up with floppy bow ties and
sexless designs. Karan's clothes are comfortable and practical,
stylish and feminine. Among her trademarks: one-piece silk
bodysuits, easy-fitting jackets, wrap skirts. Fashion doyen John
Fairchild, publisher of Women's Wear Daily, lauds Karan as the most
important American designer. Says he: "Donna understands a woman's
body the way Coco Chanel did." A size 12 herself, Karan boasts the
rare and eternally marketable talent of cutting a skirt or a pair
of pants so that they flatter a woman's hips even if she is not
runway-thin.
The designer's main collection, called Donna Karan New York,
is in demand among an elite crowd that seldom blinks at a $1,100
price tag for a cashmere blazer or $510 for a high-neck silk
blouse. But it is Karan's more congenially priced DKNY wardrobe
that has struck a popular chord. Among its current best sellers:
plaid wool jackets ($395), denim jeans ($85) and merino-wool
cardigans ($200).
As a hardworking woman in what is still a male-dominated star
system, Karan is instantly simpatico to many of her customers. When
she makes appearances at department stores, Karan acts like a wise
older sister dispensing fashion tips and helping customers assemble
her clothes into outfits. Says Karan, as she twirls her oversize
black eyeglasses: "I am accessible. I see myself as a person who
stays up all night and worries about her daughter (Gaby, 15) and
her husband, and would like to get the carpeting ordered."
When Karan was growing up, the rag trade was a family
tradition. Her father, who died when she was 3, was a custom
tailor. Her mother worked as a showroom model and saleswoman. Her
stepfather sold women's apparel. Karan studied at Parsons School
of Design in Manhattan, then worked as an assistant to the
legendary Anne Klein. When Klein died in 1974, Karan was named her
successor. At that moment she was the 26-year-old mother of a
week-old baby.
Karan and Louis Dell'Olio, a friend and classmate from Parsons,
proved a formidable team at Anne Klein during their ten-year
tenure. In 1982, when Karan launched Anne Klein II, a lower-priced
line, she experienced for the first time the creative rush of
designing an entirely new collection. She was restless but still
afraid to leave the security of Anne Klein. Finally, her boss at
the company, Frank Mori, pushed her out on her own. Recalls Mori:
"It was like, `The bad news is you're fired. And the good news is
you have your own company.'" Takihyo, the Japanese textile
conglomerate that owned Anne Klein, put up an initial $3 million
to help launch Donna Karan Co. The designer and Stephan Weiss, her
second husband and partner, got a 50% stake in the business.
Now the company is going through a challenging transition from
a cozy, family-style operation to a more structured, hierarchical
organization. Says Karan: "The growth is frightening. It truly is.
My biggest dream is to allow this business to grow and not lose the
integrity of what we have." Much of that task will fall to
president Stephen Ruzow, a former executive at the Warnaco apparel
company. Ruzow, 46, hired five months ago, is also attempting to
smooth out production snags that have sometimes led to uneven
quality in Karan's garments, which are mostly made in Manhattan and
Hong Kong.
Like most successful designers, Karan plans to diversify into
the lucrative accessory business. She already licenses her name for
lines of hosiery, eyeglasses, jewelry, shoes and furs. The firm is
planning to enter the enticing but highly competitive fragrance
market. At the same time, her clothes have bright prospects
overseas. Karan's lines, now sold in only one exclusive London
shop, Browns, will appear next March in two leading London
department stores, Harrods and Harvey Nichols.
As she contemplates her sprawling empire, part of Karan wants
to pull back. The woman who says she designed her first solo
collection for herself and "a group of us girls" seems unsure how
she feels about becoming one of America's best-known fashion
labels. "I don't want everybody walking around in my clothes. It's
a terrible thing to say," Karan muses. But the Karan look is
already nearly ubiquitous. One of her devotees is Candice Bergen,
whose TV character Murphy Brown seems to have a Karan outfit for
every occasion.